Your Mama Tzfat

Day 3 on the road draws to a close. I am writing this entry from Kibbutz Ein Gev on the on the eastern shore of the Kinneret. It is night and I can see the lights of Tiberius from across the lake.

Greek-Orthodox Church, Capernum

Before we left Tiberius, Dan and I started the day with toast and a friendly game of checkers.  Then we hit the road.  We were headed for Tzvat.  On the way, we made a quick stop in Capernum.  Capernum was an ancient town and it is said to be the home of Saint Peter.  Today, what remains are the beautiful ruins of a once thriving city.  The house once inhabited by Peter is there - with an enormous modern church of glass built above it.  Also in Capernum is one of the oldest synagogues in the world .  Most breathtaking is the Greek-Orthodox church that is located just outside the ancient city walls.  It sits on a hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee. The yard of the Greek-Orthodox Church is full of peacocks, a Christian symbol of immortality. I thought that was a nice touch.

Church of the Multiplication, Tagba

The rock.

After Capernum, we visited Tagba.  Tagba is the traditional site of the miracle of the multiplication of loaves and fish.  Until 1948, it was also an Arab village. Now, Tagba is a Christian pilgrimage site.  The small church has been built around a large rock, upon which Jesus stood to bless the bread and fish.  There was an enormous group of Christian Indians in Tagba today.  They came in a big bus.

Today, I wore pants and a hoodie and so I was allowed to enter the holy sites...something to keep in mind in case you ever want to visit the Holy Land...they don't take kindly to exposed shoulders.

Then we arrived in Tzfat.   Tzfat is the highest city in Israel. It is one of Judaism's four holy cities and is the world center for Kabbalah.  Because of its deep foundation in Jewish mysticism and magic, the city is built around superstition and magic. Every doorway is painted turquoise or blue...colors thought to ward off evil. The religious women dress in turquoise and even wear turquoise eye make-up.  Chamsas and the ever-seeing eye hang in every home and garden.

Upon my request, Dan and I visited every synagogue we could find in the city.  We also visited the artist quarter where we got to talk to some local artists.  It was a great chance for us to practice our Hebrew away from the kibbutz.  We also visited the famous Safed Candle Shop.  In the shop they had a giant wax candle sculpted into a David and Goliath scene.  It was clever. I especially liked that Goliath had crusty toenails. We ate Yemenese food for lunch...which included Yemenese Ganja Juice for Dan.  Dan bought some fly Naot sandals and then we explored the old cemetery.

The Artist Colony in Tzfat

Now we are in Ein Gev drinking rum and playing War. We ate dinner at the Ein Gev Fish Restaurant. I got Fish Shwarma and it was AWESOMMME.  A long day, I think I'm going to hit the hay.  Tomorrow we are going to Hamat Gader...and then home.

With undying love for cheeze, Sublime, Chevrolets, hand wipes, a mammoth orange, and St. Peter Fish.

I respectfully remain,
J. Michael Hess Webber